The only eyebrows raised, however, were those of the other riders trotting round the arena at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art in Jerez. More fifty shades of greys, than grey to be honest.
I was having a lesson with Juan, one of the school’s top riders, to discover what it was like to ride one of the world’s most iconic horse breeds.
Best known as the horses that leap through the air at the Spanish Riding School of Vienna, the Andalusian horse’s spiritual home is here on the Iberian Peninsula. And with the Royal Andalusian School’s first ever visit to London International Horse Show at Olympia this Christmas, it’s the perfect time to remember how much you enjoyed ‘horse dancing’ at London 2012.
In situ, the School is part of the Holy Trinity of a Jerez visit – along with flamenco and sherry. Each has a special place in the cultural psyche of this passionate southern Spanish city.
Many visitors come for the Festival de Jerez in February, when the city erupts with a flounce and a stamp in major performances and flamenco jam sessions around town. But you can see awesome moves at the equestrian school all year.
Hot to trot: While some of the dressage performances are outstanding, Anna gets to grips with the basics
The School is primarily a working one, dedicated to equestrian training, from tack making to carriage driving. It runs two-week riding courses for accomplished riders – if you’re not quite ready then a lower-key experience can be found on riding holidays letting Andalusian horses take you through the countryside nearby.
Riding a school stallion is, to be honest, the equivalent of driving a Ferrari - and those also training in the indoor school were avoiding me like a bumper car. My horse was a perfect gent though, clearly confused by the commands I was giving but doing his best to comply.
This biddable nature is part of what attracted Juan to the breed when he joined the school 30 years ago: “They are smart horses and they wish to help their riders,” he said, stroking my horse’s neck affectionately.
Show time: Professionals and even Olympians train at the Andalusian School of Equestrian Art
Most don’t need as much help as me. It takes four years for already excellent riders to train to perform, and such is the School’s prestige that riders tend to stay for life – even its resident Olympic dressage medallists, Ignacio Rambla and Rafael Soto.
The best way to see the school on foot is a tour, including the stables. Or just wander round the palm-shaded grounds, set around a palace designed by Charles Garnier, watching the horses being exercised in the sunshine.
There are also two excellent museums, one for carriages and an equestrian arts one, where you can learn your Levade (standing on hind legs, 30 degrees to the ground) from your Spanish Walk (a straight leg walk peculiar to the breed).
Surprisingly you’ll also find out that horse dancing really isn’t so last year - the Greeks actually introduced dressage into the Olympic Games in 648BC.
Home of champions: It is possible to take a tour
of the Andalusian School of Equestrian Art and see dressage
performances in action
The regular performances at the school showcase everything from doma vaquera (Spanish farmhand reining) to low rein work (where the horseman or woman controls the horse from the ground) and Quadrilles, where horses and riders dance in synchronized movements.
Sit in the front row and you can see the muscles working under the horses’ satin skins and hear their breath as they move past with controlled power. Of course the spectacular jumps – the Capriole - get the biggest clap. Even if you know nothing about dressage it makes your mouth drop open.
But it’s not just about the pizzazz; the performances have a warmth about them that sums up the school – I caught a rider’s eye as they trotted round and got a proud smile in return. I could have stayed all day and it was with reluctance we left after the curtain call to enjoy a lunch of rich acorn-fed Bellota ham and sherry.
Colonial charm: Many people visit pretty Jerez for its annual festival in February, which features plenty of Flamenco acts
A visit to Jerez really should encourage you to put down the Croft Original and step away. They may produce it here, but you’re missing out if you don’t try other more sophisticated varieties made here from Pedro Jimenez and Palomino grapes - from bone dry to nutty sweet. The best way to get a taste is with a visit to a Bodega, there are over 30 in the vicinity, from independent producers to sherry giants like González Byass, whose celebrity visitors have ranged from Picasso to Prince Philip, and all of whom have signed a barrel.
I
didn’t need a barrel to put my mark on Jerez though. Sipping chilled
sherry in the sunshine I felt pretty sure I’d already been a memorable
guest. Let’s face it, no one at the Royal Andalusian School of
Equestrian Art is going to forget my attempt at a piaffe in a hurry.
